Most of Strasbourg's
museums are
to be found to the south of the
cathedral (the main exception being the
Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain),
between the tree-lined place du Château
and the river. Check with the tourist
office for museum passes/discounts if
you are planning to visit them all.
Right next to the cathedral, place du
Château is enclosed to the east and
south by the Lycée Fustel and the
Palais Rohan , both eighteenth-century
buildings, the latter designed for the
immensely powerful Rohan family, who,
for several generations in a row,
cornered the market in cardinals' hats.
There are three museums in the Palais
Rohan itself (Mon & Wed-Sat 10am-6pm;
closed public hols; 20F/¬3.05 for each
of the museums, or 40F/¬6.10 for all
three): the Musée des Arts Décoratifs,
Musée des Beaux-Arts and Musée
Archéologique . Of the three
collections, only the Arts Décoratifs
stands out - and that's of slightly
specialist interest - with its
eighteenth-century faïence tiles
crafted in the city by Paul Hannong. The
rooms of the palace are vast, opulent
and ostentatious but not especially
interesting.
Next door, in the mansion lived in by
the cathedral architects, the Musée
de l'Oeuvre Notre-Dame (Tues-Sun
10am-6pm; 20F/¬3.05) houses the original
sculptures from the cathedral exterior,
damaged in the Revolution and replaced
today by copies; both sets are worth
seeing. And there are other treasures
here: glass from the city's original
Romanesque cathedral; the eleventh-century
Wissembourg Christ, said to be the
oldest representation of a human figure
in stained glass; and the architect's
original parchment drawings for the
statuary, done in fascinating detail
down to the different expressions on
each figure's face.
The Musée Historique (closed
for renovation at time of writing), 3
place de la Grande Boucherie by place du
Marché-aux-Cochons-de-Lait (Sucking-Pig
Market), is mainly concerned with the
city, though it also has an oddball
collection of mechanical toys upstairs.
On the other side of the river, in a
typically Alsatian house on quai St-Nicolas
across the Pont du Corbeau, is the
Musée Alsacien , 23 quai St-Nicholas
(daily except Tues 10am-6pm; 20F/¬3.05),
which contains painted furniture and
other local artefacts.
The latest addition to Strasbourg's
museums is the Musée d'Art Moderne et
Contemporain (Tues, Wed & Fri-Sun
11am-7pm, Thurs noon-10pm; 30F/¬4.57),
housed in a purpose-built glass-fronted
building overlooking the river and
Vauban's dam. It's a light and airy
space and its collection is well
presented, acknowledging the importance
of some lesser-known artists in the
scheme of modern art. The ground floor
confronts the themes, challenges and
roots of modern European art from the
late nineteenth century through to the
1950s, by way of the Impressionists,
Symbolists, a good section on Surrealism,
with plenty of folkloric, mystical
paintings by Brauner, and of course a
room devoted to the soft curves sculpted
by Strasbourg's own Arp. The chronology
continues upstairs with conceptual art
and Arte Povera, and finishes up with
stripy creations by Daniel Buren and
video art by Bill Viola.
Another interesting museum, visitable
by appointment only, is the Centre
Tomi Ungerer , 4 rue de la Haute-Montée
(Thurs 9am-noon, 2-6pm by appointment;
tel 03.88.32.31.54; free), which houses
the private collections and works of the
Strasbourg-born artist.