Brittany's
proudest
addition
to the
great
cuisines
of the
world
has to
be the
crêpe
and its
savoury
equivalent
the
galette
;
crêperies
throughout
the
region
attempt
to pass
them off
as
satisfying
meals,
serving
them
with
every
imaginable
filling.
However,
few
people
can plan
their
holidays
specifically
around
eating
pancakes,
and
gourmets
are far
more
likely
to be
enticed
to
Brittany
by its
magnificent
array of
seafood
.
Restaurants
in
resorts
such as
St-Malo
and
Quiberon
jostle
for the
attention
of fish
connoisseurs,
while
some
smaller
towns -
like
Cancale,
which
specializes
in
oysters
(
huîtres
), and
Erquy,
with its
scallops
(
coquilles
St-Jacques
) -
depend
wholly
on one
specific
mollusc
for
their
livelihood.
Although
they
can't
quite
claim to
be
uniquely
Breton,
two
appetizers
feature
on every
self-respecting
menu.
These
are
moules
marinières
, giant
bowls of
succulent
orange
mussels
steamed
open in
a
combination
of white
wine,
shallots
and
parsley
(and
perhaps
enriched
by the
addition
of cream
or crème
fraiche
to
become
moules à
la crème
), and
soupe
de
poissons
,
traditionally
served
with a
little
pot of
the
garlicky
mayonnaise
known as
rouille
(coloured
by the
addition
of
pulverized
sweet
red
pepper),
a mound
of
grated
gruyère
, and a
bowl of
croutons.
Jars of
freshly
made
soupe de
poissons
- or
even
crab or
lobster
- are
always
on sale
in
seaside
poissonneries
, and
make an
ideal
way to
take a
taste of
France
home
with you.
Paying a
bit more
in a
restaurant
-
typically
on menus
costing
150F/¬22.87
or more
- brings
you into
the
realm of
the
assiette
de
fruits
de mer
, a
mountainous
heap of
langoustines,
crabs,
oysters,
mussels,
clams,
whelks
and
cockles,
most of
them raw
and all
delicious.
Main
courses
tend to
be
plainer
than in
Normandy,
for
example,
with
fresh
local
fish
being
prepared
with
relatively
simple
sauces.
Skate
served
with
capers,
or
salmon
baked
with a
mustard
or
cheese
sauce,
are
typical
dishes,
while
even the
cotriade
, a stew
containing
such
fish as
sole,
turbot
or bass,
as well
as
shellfish,
is
distinctly
less
rich
than its
Mediterranean
equivalent,
the
bouillabaisse
.
Brittany
is also
better
than
much of
France
in
maintaining
its
respect
for
fresh
green
vegetables
, thanks
to the
extensive
local
production
of peas,
cauliflowers,
artichokes
and the
like.
Only
with the
desserts
can
things
get a
little
heavy;
far
Breton
,
considered
a great
delicacy,
is a
baked
concoction
of
sponge
and
custard
dotted
with
chopped
plums,
while
îles
flottantes
are
meringue
icebergs
adrift
in a sea
of crème
brulée
or
custard.
Strictly
speaking,
no
wine
is
produced
in
Brittany
itself.
However,
along
the
lower
Loire
valley,
the
département
of Loire-Atlantique,
centred
on
Nantes,
is still
generally
regarded
as "belonging"
to
Brittany.
Vineyards
here are
responsible
for the
dry
white
Muscadet
- which
is what
normally
goes
into
moules
marinières
- and
the even
drier
Gros-Plant.