Dijon has an inordinate number of
pâtisseries in the town, full of high-quality, tempting confectionery in which marzipan and fruit feature prominently. The more exotic places also promote the Dijon specialities:
pain d'épices , a gingerbread made with honey and spices and eaten with butter or jam (from Mulot et Petitjean, 13 place Bossuet and other branches all over town), and
cassissines - blackcurrant candies.
Chocolate , best made on the premises, is another speciality - try Au Parrain Généreux, 21 rue du Bourg. And you can hardly forget that Dijon is also the high temple of
mustard ; there is the shop of leading producer Maille at 30 rue de la Liberté, selling a range from the mild to the cauterizing. Finally, a couple of ideas for buying good but affordable
wine : first and foremost, there's Nicot, 48 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, where you can taste, seek advice or take courses; alternatively, try La Cave du Clos, 3 rue Jeannin, or Nicolas, 6 rue François-Rude.
There are a large number of excellent restaurants in town. Lively rue Berbisey and place Emile Zola hold the most promise for both eating and drinking options. There are also three university restaurants - 3 rue du Dr-Maret in the town centre; 6 bd Mansart; 6 rue du Recteur-Bouchard, near the university to the southeast of the city - where students can eat for 15F/¬2.29 (daily 11.30am-1.15pm & 6.40-7.45pm).
Restaurants
Bistrot des Halles , 10 rue Bannelier (tel 03.80.49.94.15). Offers serious gourmet eating, with menus at around 160F/¬24.39, lunch menu at 92F/¬14.02. Closed Sun evening.
Le Clos des Capucines , 3 rue Jeannin, at the end of rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau (tel 03.80.65.83.03). Situated in a beautiful medieval setting, this restaurant serves very good traditional, rich Burgundy cuisine ( jambon persillé , escargots , bSuf bourguignon ) at very reasonable prices. Menus at 85F/¬12.96 and up to 230F/¬35.06, carte around 200F/¬30.49. Closed Sun.
Côté St-Jean , 13 rue Monge (tel 03.80.50.11.77). Rather chic restaurant offering such delights as fricassee of lobster, duck tournedos and gratin of pears and almonds. Menus 108-175F/¬16.46-26.68, carte over 200F/¬30.49. Closed Sat lunch, Tues & mid-July to mid-Aug.
Coum' Chez Eux , 68 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau (tel 03.80.73.56.87). A restaurant that continues to provide genuine homely regional cooking: jambonneau with lentils, leek pie, home-made terrines, rabbit sautéed Morvan-style. It also has an informal and agreeable atmosphere. Carte around 130F/¬19.82. Closed Sat lunch & Sun.
Gril'Laure , 8 place St-Bénigne (tel 03.80.41.86.76). Popular with the business lunch crowd for its convenient cathedral-side location, sophisticated atmosphere, and pizzas, pasta and grilled dishes hot out of the wood-fired oven. Menus at 100F/¬15.24. Closed Sun lunch.
Hostellerie de l'Étoile , 1 rue Marceau (tel 03.80.73.30.72). Serves an excellent traditional meal in an attractive dining room just off place de la République; menus from 120F/¬18.29, carte around 200/¬30.49. Closed Sun evening & Mon.
Hostellerie Le Sauvage , 64 rue Monge . First-class grills in a great little courtyard. Lunch menu at 75F/¬11.43, carte around 130-150F/¬19.82-22.86. Closed Sat lunch & Sun.
Le Potimarron , 4 av de l'Ouche (tel 03.80.43.38.07). A bit out of the way, but serves home-made vegetarian and macrobiotic dishes as well as organic meat and fish. Menus at 75F/¬11.43 and 85F/¬12.96, carte 70-90F/¬10.67-13.72. Closed Sun & Mon.
Le Simpatico , 30 rue Berbisey (tel 03.80.30.53.53). Trendy Italian restaurant with funky decor and excellent menus (65-185F/¬9.91-28.20). Closed Sun, Mon lunch & Aug.
Le Verdi , 10 place Émile Zola (tel 03.80.30.68.41). Wildly popular lunch menu (62F/¬9.45) including grills, pizza and fish, all wonderfully prepared and served in an intimate two-room dining area. Dinners in the 95-150F/¬14.48-22.87 range. One of the few places open on Sun, though closed Mon & Tues.
