Marseille - Eating And Drinking

The Marseillais eat just as well, if not better, than the ageing aristos and skin-stretched celebrities of the Riviera. Fish and seafood are the main ingredients, and the superstar of dishes is the city's own expensive invention, bouillabaisse , a saffron- and garlic-flavoured fish soup with bits of fish, croutons and rouille to throw in; theories conflict as to which fish should be included and where and how they must be caught, but one essential fish is the rascasse or scorpion fish. The other city speciality is the less exotic pieds et paquets , mutton or lamb belly and trotters.

Good restaurant hunting grounds to head for include cours Julien or place Jean-Jaurès (international options), the pedestrian precinct behind the Vieux Port's southern quay (a bit more upmarket and fishy), rue Pavillon (cheap lunches), the plage du Prado (glitzy and pricey) or Le Panier (snacks and old-time bistrots). Gourmet palaces lurk close to the corniche, while stalls on cours Belsunce sell chips and sandwiches with meaty fillings for under 20F/¬3.05. Note that many Marseille restaurants take long summer breaks.

Cafés and bars
Bar de la Marine , 15 quai Rive Neuve, 1er. A favourite bar for Vieux Port lounging and the inspiration for Pagnol's celebrated Marseille trilogy of Marius (1929), Fanny (1931) and César (1936). Closed Sun.

Boulangerie , bd Baille. Open 24hrs, so ideal for late-night snacks.

Le Cadratin , 17 rue St-Saëns, 1er. Friendly and cheap bar with 1960s music playing on the jukebox and a great mix of people, both foreign and local.

Café Parisien , 1 place Sadi-Carnot, 2e. Very beautiful old-fashioned café, where people play cards and chess. Occasional painting exhibitions.

Le Petit Nice , 26 place Jean-Jaurès, 1er. Cosy, local bar overlooking the market.

La Samaritaine , 2 quai du Port, 2er. Sunny café, with the best panorama of the Vieux Port.

Restaurants
Les Arcenaulx , 25 cours d'Étienne-d'Orves, 1er (tel 04.91.54.77.06). Superb food with menus from 135F/¬20.59 in an intellectual haunt which is also a bookshop. Mixed gay and straight crowd. Closed Sun.

L'Atelier du Chocolat , 18 place aux Huiles, 1er (tel 04.91.33.55.00). Gorgeous chocolate puddings to finish off an excellent meal; 100F/¬15.25 menu including wine. Closed Sun, Mon & Tues evening.

La Athena , 2 rue de la République, 1er. Newly opened Armenian restaurant with meals from 60F/¬9.15. Closed Sun & Mon lunch.

Auberge "In" , 25 rue du Chevalier-Roze, 2e (tel 04.91.90.51.59). In a health-food shop on the edge of Le Panier. Vegetarian menu fixe served lunchtimes and early evenings (around 60F/¬9.15). Closed Sun.

Chez Abdalla , 17 rue Gui-Mocquet, 1er. Friendly Somali restaurant, tucked down a little alley. The food is inexpensive (huge plats for 35F/¬5.34) and delicious.

Chez Angèle , 50 rue Caisserie, 2e (tel 04.91.90.63.35). Packed Le Panier local, with a bargain menu fixe for basic French food. Closed Sat evening, Sun & Aug.

Chez Étienne , 43 rue Lorette, 2e. Old-fashioned Le Panier bistrot; hectic, cramped and crowded. Full meal from 100F/¬15.25 as well as cheaper pizzas. No bookings. Closed Sun & Mon.

Chez Michel , 6 rue des Catalans, 7e (tel 04.91.52.30.63). There's no debate about the bouillabaisse ingredients here. A basket of five fishes, including the elusive and most expensive one, the rascasse , is presented to the customer before the soup is made. Quite simply the place to eat this dish. Expect to pay 250F/¬38.13 for the bouillabaisse alone.

Dar Djerba , 15 cours Julien, 6e (tel 04.91.48.55.36). Excellent Tunisian restaurant with beautiful tiling. Around 150F/¬22.88.

Maurice Brun , 18 quai Rive-Neuve, 7e (tel 04.91.33.35.38). A Marseille institution serving authentic Provençal food; lunch menu 200F/¬30.50, evening 250F/¬38.13. Closed Sun, & Mon lunch.

Le Miramar , 12 quai du Port, 2e (tel 04.91.91.10.40). This local favourite is not cheap, but with its portside location, and gregarious owner it is well worth the price (à la carte from 350F/¬53). Best bet is the bouillabaisse .

Le Souk , 98 quai du Port, 2e (tel 04.91.91.29.29). Top-notch North African restaurant with excellent quality food and smart service. Count on spending 200F/¬30.50.