A Flemish flavour and a taste for mussels ( moules ) characterize Lille's cuisine. The main area for cafés , brasseries and restaurants is around place Rihour and along rue de Béthune. Rue Royale has a selection of fairly pricey but generally very good ethnic eateries, from Cambodian to Japanese. The best general area for cheap restaurants is the student quarter along the Solférino and rue Masséna.

 

Bar de la Cloche , 13 place du Théâtre. Excellent small brasserie, serving twenty different wines by the glass, in a relaxed, casual atmosphere; popular with the older set. Plats 60-80F/¬9.15-12.20, cheeses and cold meats 30-55F/¬4.57-8.38.

Coq Hardi , 44 place Général-de-Gaulle. In a prime position on the main square, you can people-watch whilst eating one of the salads at 40-50F/¬6.10-7.62 or specialities of the region from the 88F/¬13.42 menu. Also open for drinks outside of meal times.

Flandre Liban , 125 rue des Postes. Excellent Lebanese restaurant in a mainly North African and Middle Eastern quarter. Go for the mezze menu at 95F/¬14.48.

La Galetière , 4 place Louise-de-Bettignies (tel 03.20.54.89.92). Good-value crêperie in the old town. If full or closed, try the equally good Beaurepaire II round the corner on place Lion-d'Or. Closed Sun & Mon.

La Huîtrière , 3 rue des Chats-Bossus (tel 03.20.55.43.41). A wonderful, colourful shop tiled with mosaics of seaside and rural working scenes, which sells everything from fish and seafood - with huge lobsters alive in their tanks - to chicken, meats and wine. An expensive, chandelier-hung restaurant at the back specializes in fish and seafood at 150-220F/¬22.87-33.54 a dish; there's a staggering 600F/¬91.47 menu, and a 260F/¬39.64 one for lunch. Closed Sun evening, hols & July 22-Aug 23.

Aux Moules , 34 rue de Béthune (tel 03.20.12.90.92). The best place to eat mussels; it's been serving them since 1930 in its Art Deco-style interior. Nothing much costs over 60F/¬9, including the other brasserie fare, and it's all excellent value. Daily noon-midnight.

Paul , place du Théâtre, cnr rue Faidherbe (tel 03.20.78.20.78). Paul is an institution in Lille and here the boulangerie, pâtisserie and salon de thé are all under one roof. There are various good breakfast menus served throughout the day, but the main reason to come here is to taste the delights of the pâtisserie in the salon de thé . Daily 7am-7.30pm.

Piccolo Mondo , 2 rue des Molfonds, off rue de Béthune. Erratic service but Lille's best pizza place. Also serves pasta and offers several vegetarian alternatives.