The suburb of Villeneuve-d'Ascq is a mark of Lille's cultural ambition: acres of parkland, an old windmill or two, and a whole series of mini-lakes form the backdrop for the Musée d'Art Moderne (daily except Tues 10am-6pm; 25F/3.81), which houses an unusually good collection in its uninviting red-brick buildings. To get there, take the métro to Pont-de-Bois, then bus #41.

 

The ground floor of the museum is generally given over to temporary exhibitions of varying quality by contemporary French artists. The permanent collection starts on the first floor with canvases by Picasso, Braque, Modigliani, Miró and a whole room devoted to Fernand Léger and Georges Rouault. On the top floor, a small room - easy to miss but worth the search - contains graphics by many of the above. Meanwhile, outside on the grass, Giacometti and Calder provide some playful picnic backdrops