Sumptuous food stores are to be found
all over Paris: the listings below are
for the
specialist places , many
of them palaces of gluttony, with prices
to match. Everyday food shopping is best
done at the
street markets or
supermarkets , though save your
bread-buying at least for the local
boulangerie . The cheapest
supermarket chain is Ed Discount.
Le Baron Aligre 1 rue
Théophile-Roussel, 12e. Mº Ledru-Rollin.
Tues-Fri 10am-2pm & 5-9.30pm, Sat
10am-9.30pm, Sun 10.30am-1pm.
Stocks a good selection of dependable
lower-range French wines; ¬1.07 for a
small tasting glass. Very drinkable
Merlot at ¬2.44 a litre, if you bring
your own containers.
Barthélémy 51 rue de Grenelle,
7e. Mº Bac. Tues-Sat 8.30am-1pm &
4-7.30pm; closed Aug.
Purveyors of cheeses to the rich and
powerful.
Carmès et Fils 24 rue de Lévis,
17e. Mº Villiers. Tues-Sat 8.30am-1pm &
4-7.30pm, Sun am; closed Aug.
Run by a family of experts who mature
many of the cheeses sold here in their
own cellars.
Caves Michel Renaud 12 place
de la Nation, 12e. Mº Nation. 9.30am-1pm
& 2-8.30pm; closed Sun pm and Mon am.
Established in 1870, this wine shop
purveys superb-value French and Spanish
wines, champagnes and Armagnac.
Comptoir du Saumon 60 rue
François-Miron, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Mon-Sat
10am-10pm.
Specializes in salmon, but sells eels,
trout and all things fishy as well -
there's also a delightful little
restaurant in which to taste the fare.
Debauve and Gallais 30 rue des
Sts-Pères, 6e. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés.
Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; closed Aug.
A beautiful, ancient shop specializing
in chocolate and elaborate sweets.
Diététique DJ Fayer 45 rue
St-Paul, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Mon-Sat
9.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-8.45pm.
One of the city's oldest specialists in
dietary, macrobiotic and vegetarian
fare.
Divay 4 rue Bayen, 17e. Mº
Ternes. Tues-Sun 8am-1.30pm &
3.30-7.30pm; closed Wed pm, Sun pm &
Aug.
Purveyor of foie gras ,
choucroute, saucisson and such.
Fauchon 26 place de la
Madeleine, 8e. Mº Madeleine. Mon-Sat
9.40am-7pm.
Carries an amazing range of super-plus
groceries and wine, all at exorbitant
prices; there's a self-service counter
for pâtisseries and plats du jour
, and a traiteur which stays open
a little later, until 8.30pm.
Goldenberg's 7 rue des
Rosiers, 4e. Mº St-Paul. Daily 9am-2am.
Superlative Jewish deli and restaurant,
specializing in charcuterie.
Hédiard 21 place de la
Madeleine, 8e. Mº Madeleine. Mon-Sat
8am-10pm. Since 1850 the aristocrat's
grocer.
Several other branches throughout the
city.
La Maison de l'Escargot 79 rue
Fondary, 15e. Mº Dupleix. Tues-Sat
9am-7.30pm, Sun 9am-1pm; closed mid-July
to Sept.
As the name suggests, this place
specializes in snails: they even sauce
them and re-shell them while you wait.
Mariage Frères 30 rue du
Bourg-Tibourg, 4e. Mº Hôtel de Ville.
Daily 10.30am-7.30pm.
Hundreds of teas, neatly packed in tins,
line the floor-to-ceiling shelves of
this 100-year-old tea emporium. There is
a salon de thé in the back with
exquisite pastries (daily noon-7pm).
À la Mère de Famille 35 rue du
Faubourg-Montmartre, 9e. Mº Le Peletier.
Tues-Sat 8.30am-1.30pm & 3-7pm.
An eighteenth-century confiserie serving
marrons glacés , prunes from
Agen, dried fruit, sweets, chocolates
and even some wines.
Poilâne 8 rue du Cherche-Midi,
6e. Mº Sèvres-Babylone. Mon-Sat
7.15am-8.15pm.
Bakes bread to ancient and secret family
recipes; there is always a queue.
Rendez-Vous de la Nature 96
rue Mouffetard, 5e. Mº Cardinal Lemoine.
Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm, Sun 9.30am-noon.
One of the city's most comprehensive
health-food stores, with everything from
organic produce to herbal teas.
