You'll find restaurants offering dishes from every region of France and overseas in Lyon. Vieux-Lyon is the area with the greatest concentration of eateries, though you'll find cheaper and less busy ones between place des Jacobins and place Sathonay at the top of the Presqu'île. The possibilities are endless, but on weekends booking ahead is always a good idea. The most affordable type of Lyonnais eating establishment, the bouchon (cork), derived its name from the vast quantities of Lyonnais wine consumed there. Tradition has it that wine bottles were lined up as the evening progressed, and at the end of the night the bill was determined by measuring from the first cork to the last. There are several bouchons located in the streets between Cordeliers and Terreaux, particularly in rue Mercière.

 

Restaurants

L'Amphitryon , 33 rue St-Jean, 5e (tel 04.78.37.23.68; Mº Vieux-Lyon). Usually packed restaurant serving Lyonnais specialities; menu for under 100F/¬15.25. Service till midnight.

Brasserie 24 Collonnes a la Une , 79 rue des Trois Maries, 5e (Mº Vieux-Lyon). Near the cathedral, this friendly brasserie, with an early twentieth-century mirrored and stained-glass interior, becomes a jazzy piano-bar at night. Menus from 98F/¬14.95. Open daily 10am-midnight.

Café des Fédérations , 8 rue du Major-Martin, 1er (tel 04.78.28.26.00; Mº Hôtel-de-Ville). Typical bouchon serving the earthiest of Lyonnais specialities (marinated tripe, black pudding and fish quenelles ) in an atmosphere to match: there's even sawdust on the floor. Menu at 118F/¬18 lunchtimes, 148F/¬22.57 dinner. Closed Sat, Sun & Aug.

Chez Léon , Halles de la Part-Dieu, 102 cours Lafayette, 3e (tel 04.78.62.30.28; Mº Part-Dieu). Bar and restaurant in the market halls, whose specialities include seafood and snails. Around 150F/¬22.88 for a good-sized meal. Closed May-Aug.

Léon de Lyon , 1 rue Pléney, 1er (tel 04.78.28.11.33; Mº Hôtel-de-Ville). Sophisticated and delicious eating, with original culinary creations as well as traditional Lyonnais recipes in this upmarket brasserie, whose huge interior is divided into intimate and warmly panelled smaller dining areas. Menus cost from 650F/¬99.13, but there's a lunch menu for 290F/¬44.23.

La Mère Brazier , 12 rue Royale, 1er (tel 04.78.28.15.49; Mº Croix-Paquet). A beautiful setting complements the excellent food, like Bresse chicken, artichoke hearts on foie gras, truffle crêpes - but it's very expensive. From 330F/¬50.33, but you can easily spend twice as much. Closed Sun, Sat lunch & Aug.

La Meunière , 11 rue Neuve, 1er (tel 04.78.28.62.91; Mº Hôtel-de-Ville). Booking is essential in this excellent bouchon , but it's worth it for the 170F/¬25.93 menu of course after course of Lyonnais specialities. Other menus start at 98F/¬14.95. Closed Sun, Mon & July & Aug.

Paul Bocuse , 40 rue de la Plage, Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or (tel 04.72.42.90.90). Lyon's most famous restaurant, named after its celebrity chef-owner, is 9km north of the city, on the west bank of the Saône. Traditional French gastronomy is the bill of fare, with stunning crême brûlée and baba au rhum . 520F/¬79.30 upwards.

Le Petit Glouton , 56 rue St-Jean, 2e (tel 04.78.74.30.12; Mº Vieux-Lyon). A small but airy and unpretentious bistro in the heart of Vieux-Lyon. You can dine inside or on the small street-side terrace for under 100F/¬15.25.

La Tour Rose , 22 rue BSuf, 5e (tel 04.78.37.25.90; Mº Vieux-Lyon). Gastronomic palace with concoctions like asparagus with an oyster mousse or salad of lobster and spinach with a creamed truffle sauce. From 295F/¬44.99. Closed Sun.